Kayakoy is an abandoned hillside village about 8 kilometers south of Fethiye that stands as one of the most haunting and atmospheric historical sites on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast. Until 1923, the village was home to a thriving community of Anatolian Greeks known as Levissi. Following the population exchange between Greece and Turkey after the Greco-Turkish War, the Greek Orthodox inhabitants were relocated to Greece and the incoming Turkish Muslim families from Greece were resettled elsewhere. The village was never repopulated, and its hundreds of stone houses, two Greek Orthodox churches, and a chapel have stood empty ever since, slowly weathering into picturesque ruins.
Walking through Kayakoy today is a profoundly moving experience. Over 350 roofless stone buildings line the hillside, many with doorways and window frames still intact, their interiors open to the sky. The two churches — Panayia Pyrgiotissa in the lower village and Taxiarchis in the upper section — still retain fragments of their painted interiors and mosaic floors. The village has been designated a UNESCO World Friendship and Peace Village, and there is a small museum near the entrance that provides historical context about the population exchange and the community that once lived here. The entrance fee is approximately 100 TL.
To visit Kayakoy, you can take a dolmus (shared minibus) from Fethiye’s central otogar, which runs regularly during summer and takes about 15 minutes. Alternatively, it’s a popular walk from Hisaronu or Oludeniz — the Lycian Way hiking trail passes through the village, and many visitors combine a morning at Kayakoy with an afternoon at Oludeniz beach, as the two are connected by a scenic walking path of about 5 to 6 kilometers. Driving or taking a taxi is also straightforward, with parking available near the entrance.
Allow at least one to two hours to explore the site properly. The village is spread across a hillside, and the upper reaches involve some uphill walking on uneven stone paths, so wear comfortable shoes and bring water, especially in summer when there is very little shade. Early morning or late afternoon visits are far more pleasant temperature-wise and also offer the best light for photography. The emptiness and silence of the village at these quieter times is deeply atmospheric — it’s easy to imagine the streets as they once were, bustling with daily life.
Kayakoy is also a worthwhile base for exploring the surrounding countryside. Several excellent restaurants in the village serve traditional Turkish home cooking, and wine from local vineyards is increasingly available. The area around the village is lovely for walking, with olive groves and pine forests stretching toward the coast. Louis de Bernieres’ novel “Birds Without Wings” was partly inspired by the history of communities like Kayakoy, and reading it before or after your visit adds a powerful literary dimension to the experience.
